2019-05-14 23:57

纯素盛宴回顾 | Vegan Fine Dining Review

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VoS 有幸参加了由主厨Ethel 和Shiyin 呈现的中国风晚宴。我们邀请到了一位上海非素食者美食评论家来品鉴，听他来讲讲他的真实感受吧！

VoS had the opportunity to enjoy a fancy Chinese-inspired seven-course dinner presented by Chef Ethel and Chef Shiyin. We invited a non-vegan Shanghainese food critic to give us his honest impression of the food. Check out the review below!

星级:三星半

Star Rating: 3.5 Stars

整场体验有一种中餐西做的感觉，厨师很懂得一些西餐的表达方法来诠释中餐元素。

The entire experience felt like a Western take on Chinese food. Both chefs had a good understanding of how to incorporate western techniques in preparing Chinese cuisine.

比如最先上来的麻婆米饼

The first course: Mapo Canape

麻婆有着清晰愉悦的豆瓣香气，其中含有花椒颗粒，提供无与伦比的麻味和香味。搭配的米饼蓬松而有嚼劲，和麻婆的酱汁很配。唯一的扣分项是香菇有烤焦的痕迹，带来些许苦味。

The Mapo dish had a fresh and pleasant aroma of bean paste (douban), as well as Sichuan peppercorn, providing an unparalled mouth-numbing flavor. The dish was accompanied by a fluffy and and chewy rice pancake, which complimented the sauce quite well. The only issue was the mushrooms were a bit burnt, which gave it a bitter taste.

第二道菜是凉拌莴笋丝

The second dish: Celtuce salad

厨师特别介绍，用了自制的老干妈辣酱，没有味精整个味道有点像是四川的红油凉皮。但辣味和酸味都很克制，更接近于西餐清新的口味莴笋丝很脆，蚕豆也很香糯，但感觉入味不足，并没有和酱汁起到互补作用。

The chef gave a very detailed introduction of the dish, introducing their homemade version of Laoganma spicy sauce with no added MSG. The dish tasted very much like the Sichuan Cold Noodle dish with chili oil, but the spicy and sour taste of the dish were dialed back a bit, more similar to the fresh taste of Western cuisine. The lettuce was very crispy, and the broad beans were sweet. It would have tasted a bit better if there was more flavor to compliment the sauce.

第三道菜是南瓜煲汤

The third dish: Seasonal squash soup

底子里应该是用酱油调味，没有油腻感。黄油则提供了些许的甜味，以及南瓜不糯，属于爽脆的口感，这能保持汤体的清澈。但脆脆的南瓜，和煲汤似乎在口感上不搭。

The soup base seemed like it was seasoned with soysauce, without an oily feeling. It had a sweet buttery taste; the pumpkin was not very soft, giving it a crispy taste that also kept the soup's clear appearence. However, the crunchy texture of the pumpkin did not compliment the base of the soup.

第四道菜是酿豆腐

The fourth dish: Stuffed tofu loaf

是那晚最喜欢的菜用豆腐取代肉末，和香菇粒一起拌成的馅料很香外面的豆腐盒用辣油浸过，非常入味吃起来软嫩鲜香，滋味丰富。

This was my favorite dish. Tofu was used in place of meat, and blended with minced mushroom to create a very aromatic stuffing. The tofu on the outside was marinated in chili oil. Overall, it was a delicious dish with a rich taste and pleasantly soft in texture.

第五道菜是豆腐菌菇包

The fifth dish: Veggie bao style soup dumpling

一上来笑了，感觉是香菇鲜肉包但里面没有肉，而是用了细碎的豆腐，应该还有菌菇高汤调味。总之吃起来完全不像全素的包子，没有鲜香浓郁。包子的皮也发得很好，劲道，有嚼劲。

I smiled as soon as this dish was served to me. It looked just like a mushroom pork stuffed bun. However, there was no meat at all in this dish, rather finely crumbled tofu was used, flavored with mushroom soup seasoning. It didn't taste anything like your typical veggie steamed bun. The skin of the bun was done well, firm and chewy.

第六道菜是紫米荷叶包饭

The sixth dish: Savory vegetable and purple rice in lotus leaves

好吃，米饭有荷叶的清新之味。最重要的是里面有辣油浸过的菌菇丝（猜测）调味使得米饭微辣爽口。上面还有紫薯泥提供甜味，味道有层次。

Delicious, the rice was infused with the flavor of fresh mint leaves. The most memorable part of the dish was the mushrooms marinated with chili oil (my guess), giving the rice a slightly spicy and refreshing taste. It was topped off with mashed purple potato, giving it a sweet taste. It was layered well with different flavors.

最后一道是桃胶木瓜雪燕

The last dish: Seasonal fruit rock candy

桃胶的滋味既清爽又清甜，搭配脆脆的木瓜，和软嫩的雪燕，滋味很丰富，也不会很甜，好吃的。

The taste of the peach gum was both refreshing and sweet. It was accompanied with crispy papaya, and soft snow swallow. It had a rich taste that wasn't too sweet, with perfectly balanced flavors.

总之所有食物都富有中餐元素，却在西餐的条理下重新结构，颇具创新，也很接地气。大量豆腐的应用取代了肉，却丝毫没有违和感，挺成功的。

My overall impression was the food was rich with elements of Chinese cuisine, but recreated with a Western twist. The dishes were very innovative, without being too over-the-top. A lot of tofu was used as a replacement for meat, but it was carried out successfully. The entire meal was executed well.

关于主厨 | About the Chefs

Ethel 是一位充满热情植物烹饪和烘焙艺术家，也是纯素无添加烘焙的创始人。她成长于烹饪世家，在过去的十年里，她走遍全球35个国家，从当地的家庭厨房和著名餐厅汲取灵感。

Ethel is a passionate plant-based culinary & baking artist, and the founder of Ethel’s Cakery. She grew up in a family with generations steeped in the culinary arts. For the past decade, she has traveled around the world to over 35 countries, learning from the kitchens of local families and prestigious restaurants.

Shiyin是一位出生于上海的华裔美国主厨，他是每周开心烹饪课的创始人。他的烹饪风格继承于家庭，集加州和纽约的烹饪经验于一体。Shiyin的目标是将中国传统风味与现代健康饮食规则相融合。

Shiyin is an American chef born in Shanghai. He is the founder of Kaixin Cooking - a weekly cooking class. His cooking style comes from his family and from his cooking experience in California and New York. Shiyin’s goal is to blend traditional Chinese flavor with modern healthy eating principles.